Trailers
November 26, 2008 · Print This Article
A typical flatbed trailer, like the one pictured here, is ideal for building a Tumbleweed Tiny House. This type of flatbed trailer is available at many trailer and RV stores.
Often when you purchase a trailer, it will have sides or ramps. That’s okay, you will just need to remove the sides and ramps. It’s actually pretty hard to find a trailer without some sides built in. Sometimes they are referred to as utility trailers.
Trailer sizes are listed as the size of the actual trailer bed. It does not include the hitch or the wheels. For example, a 7′ x 14′ trailer would be 7′ between the wheels. Almost all trailers are
8′6″ wide when you include the wheels; and as it turns out, this is the widest possible width for road travel without a permit. The bed of the trailer would be 14′ long, and when you add the hitch, it would probably measure 17′ long.
Except for the New Popomo, all of our portable homes require a flatbed trailer where the wheels are taller than the trailer bed. The maximum legal road height in the US (without a permit) is 13′6″. None of our homes are taller than 13′5″. But more important than the legal road height is the height of the bridges. Most bridges are in fact much taller than 13′6″, but to be safe, you can not build on a trailer where the entire bed is above the wheels.
The New Popomo does not have a loft, and therefore is designed to fit on a trailer bed that is “over the axle”. The advantage to that design is that it provides for a wider house, albeit shorter.
Most trailers come with a double axle. Usually, each axle is rated to hold 3,500 lbs. However, some axles are rated for 5,000 lbs each. Therefore, a double axle trailer will have a total rating of 7,000 lbs or 10,000 lbs. This rating will have a large impact on the price. It is referred to as “GVWR”, which means Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. Keep in mind that the GVWR includes the weight of the trailer. So if the trailer is rated for 7,000 lbs and the trailer weighs 1,000 lbs, you can put 6,000 lbs on it. On our website, we list the weight of our houses including the weight of the trailer.
Except for the XS-House, all of our homes require a double axle trailer. The XS-House can be built on a single axle trailer if the axle is rated for 5,000 lbs.
Trailers usually include brake lights, a license plate, and a breaking mechanism. The lights and brakes attach to your car/truck, and when you use the brakes, it will also apply the brakes to the trailer.
There are many sizes for hitch balls, but almost all are either 2″ or 2 5/8″. The hitch ball on your car/truck is easily changable, and probably around $30.
Because the trailer is roughly 18% of the material cost, saving money on the trailer is the easiest way to control construction costs. Consider buying a used trailer. Craigslist.org is an excellent place to look for a used trailer. Prices for used trailers range from $500-$1500, a savings of $1000-$2000.
Here are some websites that sell new trailers:
Big Tex Trailers
Trailers for Less
Trailers Plus
Great write up Steve & Jay… thanks!
I’ve also found that old camping trailer are a good place to find trailers. The only trouble is you usually have to dismantle the camping trailer first and if the trailer isn’t in too bad of condition the trailer will be strait and fairly free of rust. Cleaning up the rust and adding a new coat of paint will help protect it for many more years of use. Zoey at togetherweareone.com did it this way and she is in fact building a Tumbleweed Tiny House.
I’ve been keeping an eye on craigslist for free trailers and from time to time they pop up. You have to move fast to get one and they tend to be in bad shape but for those looking for a good deal and happy to put in more sweat equity these free trailers might prove to be a great way to go. But as always with anything free… Caveat Emptor.
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Jay Shafer reply on November 27th, 2008 4:32 pm:
Thanks Zoie’s link and the good ideas.
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Lots of great info. Thanks!
Did I tell you I can tow my little travel trailer with my car?? I was so excited about my tiny house being light enough that I could tow it! I’ll write about that soon in my blog: http://thistinyhouse.com
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Hi Steve & Jay,
Glad to see you post this article. I have gotten several requests for this information and have shared what I learned at the Tiny House Workshop. It is nice to have a post to point people to where they can get this great information. Keep it coming…
.
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Jay Shafer reply on November 27th, 2008 4:14 pm:
See you Sunday.
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I’ve seen Zoey’s blog mentioned above. It looks like she’s coming along pretty good lately too. I’ve been following her blog since she started taking the camper portion apart.
Where I live, the local Lowes and Tractor Supply Company also have trailers. At least 7′ x 16′. I’m still looking around, the ones I found at those places have a 2′ dove tail (small ramp on the end of the bed itself).
Good post.
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Jay Shafer reply on November 27th, 2008 4:14 pm:
I actually built my house over one of those by putting a 2×4 block at the end. A flat flat bed is preferable though.
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Daniel reply on November 27th, 2008 5:19 pm:
looking at tractor supply company website, it looks like they do have flat ones (no dove tail) that is a special order but also much more costly.
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I would be very interested in comments–positive or negative–about what specific types of vehicles are used to tow these homes.
I’ve read from other sites that one would need a 3/4 ton V8 which could be negated with an efficient use of biodiesel.
I’ve seen actual pictures of homes being towed by mid-80’s model mid-sized pickups.
So I’m curious to know what specific types of vehicles are most effective–eonomically and practically–to tow these homes.
Also, how often is it actually towed from camp to camp.
Thanks,
Drew
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Jay Shafer reply on December 1st, 2008 10:13 pm:
I only move mine every once in a great while. This allows me to keep a scooter as my primary mode of transportation. I just rent a U-Haul or pick-up when I need it. A V-8 seems to work best.
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i wondered if the current first home owners grant is availible for the tiny house?
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Jay Shafer reply on January 15th, 2009 4:48 pm:
I will have to look into that.
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Jay - I notice that some of your homes are designed to use a 7′x18′ trailer but are 19′ long… do you extend the house over the hitch side of the bed, the rear side of the bed, or 50/50 on both?
Rachel - I believe any tiny home you buy prior to the deadline or build yourself/have built for you and occupy prior to the deadline is eligible for the first home owners grant, the lesser of 10% or whatever the full amount is ($7500?).
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Jay Shafer reply on February 14th, 2009 5:00 pm:
A little on each end. How much depends on the weight distribution needs of each house.
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Are any specific drivers licenses required to haul little houses (in the western states)?
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Jay Shafer reply on March 13th, 2009 11:07 pm:
Not as of yet. They fit within the size limmits.
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For anyone who is looking for a trailer (or any other building specific building materials, for that case!), check out the turbo-search engine that searches multiple cities’ Craigslist websites for what you are looking for…
http://www.crazedlist.org
you’ll have to use mozilla firefox and follow the instructions on how to use it closely, but it works like a charm for searching for something you are willing to drive a ways to get!
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Jay Shafer reply on March 31st, 2009 11:17 am:
Thanks, Brittany.
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you are about to put quite an investment on this trailer. Like a house you need a good foundation. Has anyone contemplated getting a galvanized trailer as I would be crushed worrying that my trailer was rusting out beneath my house. Probably money well spent to get a glavanized trailer similar to boat trailers
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Jay Shafer reply on April 16th, 2009 9:39 am:
Think “powder coat”. It’s a quality paint job.
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What about having the metal on the trailer sprayed with Line-X coating before building? Has anyone done this or is it overkill?
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Jay Shafer reply on April 27th, 2009 11:09 am:
Perhaps that’s the answer.
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Hey Jay,
What about the length of the main section of the trailer? I know that the longest home on a trailer is 19 feet. Does that include the 2 1/2 foot porch? So 21 1/2 foot long?
Is there any regulations against getting a 24 foot long trailer and driving with something that long?
Thanks so much.
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Donna F. reply on May 16th, 2009 9:20 pm:
I also need a 24 foot trailer because I want to keep the open ceiling and have another sleeping loft for my child.
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Jay Shafer reply on May 17th, 2009 12:56 pm:
Nothing would prohibit it, but my designs are only about 19′ including the porches.
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Just a couple of suggestions on trailers. I would recommend using what the industry commonly refers to as a “carhauler” style trailer with the frame constructed from C-channel iron and having no side rails. The 7,000 pound rated trailers mostly use the 4″ C-channel (and 5-lug wheels) while the 10,000 pound rated use 5″ C-channel (and 6-lug wheels) and the 14,000 pound rated use 6″ C-channel (and 8-lug wheels). The “utility” trailers commonly have the side rails and the frame built from angle iron; much too flimsy as constructed and even worse if you remove the side rails to build your house. C-channel is much more resistant to twisting and will give you a substantially more solid foundation than will angle iron. Also purchase a trailer that has brakes on both axles, money well spent to have a reasonable stopping distance especially with that much weight on board. If you can find a trailer with leaf springs instead of the rubber torsion springs buy it, especially if you will be hauling heavier loads. The leaf springs are considered more durable, will handle heavier loads, and won’t bounce constantly while traveling down the road. The powdercoated finishes are very durable and would be a good choice if available. Most camping trailer frames will probably be too lightweight to haul anything but the smallest of homes since the RV’s are primarily a travel vehicle and are designed to weigh as little as possible so they are easy to tow and cheap to build.
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Mike reply on June 2nd, 2009 9:46 pm:
We purchased our trailer from fabform.com via a local dealer. (Ready for p/u 7/2/09) It’s definitely the biggest price tag, but it’s the foundation of the whole house, so… with FENCL plans in hand, we ordered:
28ft trailer (we’re adding a bunk room onto the plan), rated for 14,000 lbs (8-lug wheels), 6″ C-channel; brakes on both axles.
And since it’s fabricated to spec, we also stated nothing to be higher than the deck height - other than the wheel wells. Treated wood deck, with 24″ spacing gaps.
And we took them up on the suggestion for a “wing-deck”, which means they bring the deck out to the full 102″ width on each side of the wheel wells.
I’ll be sure to ask about the leaf springs vs rubber torsion springs.
The dealer is in Olympia, WA and the price tag was $4800.
We might have saved $$ initally buy getting something smaller or used, but I was nervous about the weight capacity of used. My personal budget allowed for more $$ on trailer (foundation of the house) and windows (love lots of windows - wood aluminum clad).
Any other suggestions for the trailer?
Can I canteliever 2.5 inches of the 5inch walls, on each side, to get the 8ft interior width?
Mike & Jill (+kids and dog)
Seattle, Wa
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Den reply on June 3rd, 2009 12:18 am:
I’m looking at the 102″ option, too. My state’s limits are 102 (8.5 ft.) wide, unrestricted. I plan to run the 2×4 walls to within about one inch of the edge of the trailer, and let the exterior sheeting come out almost flush. That gives me almost 8 ft. interior. The roof eves are the only problem and I have a few solutions for that, too.
Don’t think canteliever is a good idea. (I know a small amount is probably ok, but can’t find any published specs on it. )
Oh, I think the expanded width will increase the roof heighth, if you use the 45 deg. plan 12 in 1 ft.
Good luck and thanks for the info. Nice to know someone else is “stretching” Jay’s brilliant design.
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Jay Shafer reply on June 5th, 2009 8:04 am:
Now that’s a trailer. N weight problem there.
I see no problem with cantelievering that much, but you might space your floor joists at 12″ O.C. to play it safe.
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Steve Charbonneau reply on June 13th, 2009 4:02 pm:
Looks like you’ve done your homework on specifiying a well built trailer. You’ll like the full width 102″ wing-deck. The only item that may be of consideration would be to have the trailer manufacturer not install fenders; if that would make your build easier. Just depends on your design/build plans. Oh, and you might specify LED lighting for the trailer; much more trouble-free and they last a lifetime.
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Eva Masin reply on September 26th, 2009 3:24 pm:
Hi Steve-
I read your comment from last June and thought maybe you’d be the one to check with. I’m looking at a used tandem axel car hauler I found on Craig’s List for $600. Obviously a good deal. I can certainly go as light weight as possible but like to play it on the safe side.
I’m looking at building a pretty simple 8 x 10 structure with a 2×4 frame.
I don’t think it’s a channel iron frame, at least it doesn’t look like it is. In that case, would I assume angle iron and something that could conceivably bend? It is a tandem axel and I’ll check how many lug nuts it has. Is there any way to find out what it is rated to?
Any thoughts you might have would be great.
Thanks for your time.
Eva Masin
(Missoula, Montana)
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Jay Shafer reply on September 29th, 2009 1:44 pm:
Jay here, and I’m sorry to say I don’t.
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Eva Masin reply on October 2nd, 2009 9:29 am:
Jay-Thanks for getting back to me. Turns out it’s a U-haul car hauler so the specs for it were on line. It is rated to 5,000 lbs so I decided that I’ll give it a go. I just got your tiny house book and have enjoyed looking through it. Lots of food for thought. Hope you’re having a good Friday. All of the best, Eva Masin
hey all, i’m demolishing a 27 ft. camper trailer and planning to build on it. Obviously thinking light weight as possible, the trailer is a doube axle, not sure about the max. weight load. HAs anyone got any info or past expereince building on a camping trailer beds/ plaease let me know as I am anxious and a bit nrevous, but generally feel it will be alrigjht. We plan not to move it around a loot and to build as lightweight as possible, but it’s challenging if you want a decent look/feeling space. thinkkng cedar shakes could be lighter for the walls? anyway 27′ camper trailer foundation, any thoughts? cheers. ange hogue
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Jay Shafer reply on August 22nd, 2009 12:25 pm:
It is almost certainly the axle(s) that will determine the maximum weight allowed, Ange. Most these days are either 3500 lb. or 5000 lb. axles. Once you figure out how much they’ll hold, subtract the weight of the actual frame (probably about 1500 lbs.) and you’ll know what you can afford to add. I weighed all of my materials on a bathroom scale before building my first house.
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Could it be possible to put the bump out little area on the weebee and fencl on a lusby? Or would that be a waste of space? I want to make the back sleeping area an artist area because I am an art student. Would that be possible?
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Jay Shafer reply on September 4th, 2009 10:14 am:
This could be done quite easily.
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S&S Duraline makes very nice horse and stock trailers. They also make flatbeds. The neat thing is that you can “custom order” pretty much anything you way, specifying axle capacity, width, length, and probably whether you want ramps, sides or anything else.
I haven’t checked with them on flatbeds, but I have talked to them about a horse trailer, and they seem very accommodating. I’ve seen their horse trailers up close, and have been very impressed with the quality and rugged nature of the build.
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